While researchers develop new and better production methods, the main

challenges for the jewelry professional are detection and disclosure. A

trained gemologist can readily identify most HPHT-grown diamonds

using standard gemological instruments and three basic procedures:

• Examining the diamond with a microscope, looking for inclusions,

color zoning, and graining

• Checking the diamond’s fluorescence under ultraviolet (UV) radiation

• Checking the diamond’s reaction to a magnet

Lab-Grown diamonds don’t have the same variety of mineral inclusions

that natural ones do. Natural diamond won’t contain included minerals

like garnet, diopside, or even another diamond. The only inclusions a

grown diamond might contain are dark, opaque remnants of the metallic

flux it grew in.

These inclusions need to be examined closely. You can use fiber-optic light

to determine if they’re highly reflective or metallic-looking. An inclusion of

metallic flux can be conclusive evidence that the diamond is grown.

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